Adhesive Tape

  • fabrics: acetate, carpets-synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Gently scrape gummy matter from material, use dry cleaning solvent. If stain persists, apply to stain and cover with absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Change the pad as it picks up the stains. Allow dry completely.
  • fabrics: acrylic, burlap, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex
    • Gently scrape up the tape. Very carefully apply cleaning fluid to stain. If stain persists, apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia added, to the stain. Tamp and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad, flush with water and dry thoroughly.

Alcoholic Beverages

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, felt, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Blot up liquid. Spray on fabric spot cleaner, or flush area with cool water. Apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter and let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep the stain and pad moist, changing the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with cool water, blotting excess liquid with a clean absorbent day. Dry thoroughly
  • fabrics: acrylic fabric, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex
    • Apply fabric spot cleaner, or sponge the stain promptly with cool water. If possible, soak the stain in cool water for at least 30 minutes or overnight. Work undiluted dishwashing or liquid detergent into stain. Rinse well. Launder as soon as possible. Old or ironed-in stains may be impossible to remove.

Apple/Apple Juice

  • fabrics: acetate, carpet-synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge area with cool water, then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover stain with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat if necessary. If stain persists, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad moistened with a solution. Let it stand 30 minutes. Add more solution, if needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush with water.
  • fabrics: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and launder as soon as possible.

Baby Food /Formula

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Begin with blotting up the baby formula or scraping the solid baby food from fabric. Sponge with a dry cleaning solvent, or apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep pad and stain moist, changing pad as it picks up the stain. Allow to dry completely.
  • fabrics: acrylic, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex
    • Blot up baby formula or scrape baby-food spills and rinse stain in cool water. Soak for 30 minutes in an enzyme presoak. Launder immediately if possible. If not, flush with cool water and allow to dry thoroughly. If stain has dried, repeated laundering may be necessary. SurfaceWallpaper: Carefully blot spilled formula or scrape up baby-food spills. Try wiping with a cool, damp cloth in even, overlapping strokes. Pat dry. If stain persists, try rubbing very gently with art gum eraser or a stale piece of rye bread to soak up the oily residue.

Berries (Blueberry, Cranberry, Rasberry, Strawberry)

  • fabrics: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, triacetate, wool
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge with cool water. Then sponge the area with lemon juice or rub a slice of lemon over the stain. Flush with clear water. Blot as much excess liquid as possible and allow to dry. If stain still persists, apply wet spotter. Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stained area moist with wet spotter. Flush with water. If any trace remains, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean, absorbent pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain and pad moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is visible, flush thoroughly with water and allow to air-dry.
  • fabrics: Cotton, linen
    • Test fabric for colorfastness. If color doesn't change, stretch the stain over bowl; fasten in place with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the fabric from a height of 2 or 3 feet. Avoid splatters. This procedure must be done immediately. If stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge the area with rubbing alcohol and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder.

Blood

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool, fiberglass
    • Treat the stain as soon as possible; set bloodstains can be extremely difficult to remove. Sponge the stain with cold water. If the blood is still wet, this step should remove it. If any stain remains, apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk and wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter and ammonia. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed, changing the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with the wet spotter and ammonia. Flush thoroughly with cool water, making sure to remove all traces of the ammonia. If stain persists, moisten it with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak-except on silk or wool- and 1/2 cup warm water. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened slightly with the enzyme solution. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add more solution to keep the stain moist and warm, but do not let the wet area spread. Flush with water and dry thoroughly.
  • fabrics: Linen. acrylic fabric, cotton, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex
    • Fresh bloodstains usually can be removed by a thorough laundering in cold water. If any stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing or liquid laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 15 minutes. tamp or scrape the stain, blotting occasionally with an absorbent pad. Continue as long as any stain is being removed. Rinse well with water, making sure to remove all trace of the ammonia. If the stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product. After 30 minutes, rinse well, then dry or launder.
  • Carpet synthetic & wool , foam rubber
    • Squirt carpet stain remover on the stained area. Another way to remove blood is to mix 1 teaspoon of mild, non alkali detergent with 1/2 pint lukewarm water. Add a small amount to the stain and blot the liquid. Do not force the stain further into the fibers. Continue blotting until no more stain is removed. If stain remains, add 1 tablespoon ammonia to 1 cup water (do not use on wool), sponge stain, and blot liquid. Continue until no more stain is removed. Place an absorbent pad over the damp area and weight it down. When no more liquid is drawn out, remove the pad and allow to air-dry thoroughly.

Butter

  • fabric: Carpet synthetic & wool acetate, burlap, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Scrape up as much of the solid butter as you can without driving any of it further into the fibers. Apply an absorbent (cornmeal for light colors, fuller's earth for dark colors) but do not press it in. Give the absorbent plenty of time of work. Remove the absorbent and, if needed, repeat the application. If any residue remains, sponge the spot with cleaning fluid or spot remover.
  • fabric: Cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex, acrylic. Scrape solid butter.
    • Pretreat with stain remover, blot the stained area, and launder as usual. If the stain remains or if immediate laundering is impossible, place the fabric stained down on an absorbent pad. flush with cleaning fluid through the back of the stain and blot with a clean, absorbent pad. Pre-treat again and rinse well or launder.
  • fabric: Leather, Suede.
    • Gently scrape to remove as much butter as you can. Rub the stain with a thick paste of fuller's earth and water. Let it dry and gently brush off the powder. Repeat if necessary. Then, for leather only, apply saddle soap.

Candle Wax

  • fabrics: Burlap, silk, wool/non-washable, rayon, acetate
    • Freeze to harden the wax. Carefully scrape up as much wax as you can, then place an absorbent pad under the stain and flush with spot remover. Allow to dry. Repeat if necessary.
  • fabrics: Cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, wool/washable, spandex, acrylic
    • Scrape to remove excess wax. Place the stained area between two pieces of white blotting paper and press with a warm iron. Change the paper as it absorbs the stain. This stain can easily spread, so use care while pressing. On colorfast fabrics, white cotton, or linen, try pouring boiling water through the stain. Allow to dry. If any trace remains, flush with dry-cleaning fluid. If any dye remains, sponge with 1 part rubbing alcohol mixed with 2 parts water. (Do not use on acrylic or modacrylic fabric.) Rinse well with clear water and dry.
  • fabric: Carpet synthetic & wool Freeze to harden the wax.
    • Gently scrape to remove it from the surface. To prevent damage to the backing, apply a small amount of cleaning fluid. Blot with an absorbent pad. Continue until no more stain is removed. If any dye remains, dilute 1 part rubbing alcohol with 2 parts water and apply it to the stain in small amounts, blotting well after each application. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Candy/Non Chocolate

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Scrape to remove as much of the candy as possible. Sponge with warm water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner or wet spotter with a few drops of white vinegar added. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Press down on the stain with a clean absorbent pad every 5 minutes. keep the stain moist with wet spotter and vinegar. When no more stain is being removed, flush with water. If any stain remains, repeat the process, using rubbing alcohol instead of the wet spotter and vinegar. (Do not use alcohol on acetate or triacetate.) When the stain is removed, rinse well with water to remove all of the sugar. On carpeting, blot the excess liquid with an absorbent pad. Then apply carpet stain remover. Allow to dry.
  • fabrics: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex
    • Usually, soaking or laundering in warm, sudsy water will remove the stain. If the stain persists, spray on fabric spot cleaner or soak the fabric, adding a few drops of ammonia to the soaking solution. Let the fabric soak for 30 minutes and rinse thoroughly with water. Next, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 1 hour (30 minutes for cotton and linen). Rinse well and dry. If stain persists, apply rubbing alcohol(do not use on acrylic or modacrylic) to the stain and tamp gently. Keep the stain is being removed. Rinse well with water. Dry or launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: leather, suede.
    • Gently scrape candy from the hide. Mix a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge, stroking with the nap on suede. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. On leather only, follow with saddle soap to condition.

Carbon Paper/Typewriter Ribbon

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, fiberglass, linen, rope, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover it with an abosorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. when no more stain is being picked up, flush with cleaning fluid. Scrape or tamp to help loosen the stain. When not working on the stain, keep it covered to minimize evaporation. Flush the stain with cleaning fluid. Allow to dry. On carpets, blot liquid, then apply carpet stain remover. Work undiluted liquid detergent into the stain, then rinse. If stain persists, apply amyl acetate to the stain and cover with an abosorbent pad dampened with amyl acetate. Keep moist for 15 minutes, blot with a clean, absorbent pad.

Catsup

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool
    • Gently scrape catsup from fabric. Sponge with cleaning fluid or treat silk by applying spot remover. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. When no more stain is being removed, flush with cleaning fluid or reapply spot remover on silk. Allow to dry. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak product and 1/2 cup warm water. (Do not use on silk and wool.) Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the enzyme presoak solution and squeezed nearly dry. Let stand for 30 minutes, adding more solution as needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not let the wet area spread. Flush with water and allow to dry. On carpets, place a clean dry pad over the area and weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow to air-dry thoroughly.
  • fabric: acrylic fabric, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Scrape up as much catsup as possible. Apply wet spotter and work into the fabric. Rinse thoroughly with water and launder. If laundering must wait and any stain remains, apply an enzyme presoak paste and let it work a while, keeping the paste moist. Thoroughly rinse area to remove all trace of enzyme presoak paste. Allow time to dry, and launder as soon as posssible.
  • fabric: leather, suede.
    • Mix solution of mild soap and lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. On leather only, follow with saddle soap to condition.
  • surface Wallpaper
    • Wipe immediately, as catsup often permanently stains wallpaper. Use a damp cloth or sponge, overlapping strokes to prevent streaks. Gently pat dry with a soft cloth.

Chewing Gum

  • fabric: acetate, acrylic, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, fiberglass, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, silk, spandex, triacetate, wool.
    • Freeze until gum gets hard. Carefully scrape or rub it from the fabric. Sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If stain remains, reapply dry spotter and cover. Check the stain every 5 minutes and press hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until all the stain has been removed. Flush with dry cleaning solvent. Dry.
  • fabric: linoleum, vinyl tile, vinyl wallcovering.
    • Freeze the gum to harden it. Use a dull tool, such as a metal spatula, to scrape the brittle gum without gouging the surface. If there is any residue, try rubbing it with a cloth dipped in spot remover or cleaning fluid. Wipe gingerly, then rub with fine-grade (000) steel wool. Wash the area and wax when dry.

Chocolate/Cocoa

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Blot or scrape up any chocolate from the surface. Flush the stain with club soda to prevent setting. Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If a stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-but do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand at least 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the stain warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When the stain is lifted, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, nylon, modacrylic, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Wipe up as much chocolate as possible without driving the stain further into the fibers. Flush the stain with club soda. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Keep the stain moist with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, apply a few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the stain, then tamp or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and ammonia and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with water to remove all trace of ammonia. Allow to dry, or launder as usual
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Blot up or scrape as much of the chocolate as possible. To prevent the stain from setting, flush with club soda. Try an application of carpet stain remover or a concentrated solution of a nonalkali carpet shampoo. After drying and vacuuming, if stain remains, mix 1 tablespoon ammonia with 1 cup water and carefully drop small amounts of the solution onto the stain. (On wool carpets, test in an inconspicuous corner first; ammonia can harm wool.) Blot with an absorbent pad. Flush area rugs or sponge carpeting with clear water. It is important to remove all trace of ammonia. Place a clean absorbent pad over the area weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow it to air-dry thoroughly.

Coffee

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, triacetate.
    • Blot up coffee with a clean cloth. Sponge the stain with water. Apply fabric spot cleaner or wet spotter and a few drops of whiter vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with water. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If any stain remains, moisten it with the solution of 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product and 1 cup warm water. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for at least 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When the stain is removed, or no more is being lifted, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.)
  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot up coffee with a clean cloth. Soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge the remaining stain with rubbing alcohol and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water. Allow to dry, but launder as soon as possible. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.)
  • fabric: Burlap, silk, wool.
    • Blot up coffee. Sponge the stain with water. Apply fabric spot cleaner or wet spotter and a few drops of white water vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water. Repeat until no more stain is being removed. If any stain remains, apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. Let stand as long as it is picking up stain, changing the pad as it does. Keep the stain and pad moist with alcohol. Flush with water. For a stubborn or old stain, try moistening the stain with a solution of 1 teaspoon enzyme pre soak product and 1 cup warm water-use only on burlap. Cover with a clean pad dipped in the solution as needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When the stain is lifted, flush thoroughly with water. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.)
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, foam rubber.
    • Blot up what you can. Apply carpet stain remover. Flush the stain with a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid laundry detergent or dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon of white vinegar. Blot with a clean pad and rinse well with water. If the stain remains, try flushing it with a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product. (Do not use wool.) Blot and flush alternately until no more stain is left. Sponge the area well with water. Blot all excess liquid and place a clean pad over the area and weight it down. When no more stain is being absorbed, allow the area to air-dry thoroughly. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.)
  • fabric: cotton, linen.
    • Blot up coffee. Pre-treat with pre-wash spot-and-stain remover, then launder immediately. If that is not possible, soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse well with clear water. Next, sponge the stain with rubbing alcohol. Rinse and allow to dry. If the stain remains, soak it in a solution of warm water and enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and dry. Launder as soon as possible. Another method is to stretch the stained area over a bowl and secure with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the stain from a height of 2 to 3 feet. Stand back to avoid splatters. Although cotton and linen can withstand boiling water, some of the finishes and colors used on the fabrics might be damaged by such harsh treatment. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous corner first. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.)
  • fabric: leather, suede.
    • Carefully blot up coffee. Mix a solution of mild soap and lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge. Wipe dry with a clean, dry cloth. If an oily stain remains, powder the stain with an absorbent, such as cornmeal. Give it plenty of time to work. Gently brush it off. Repeat if necessary. On leather only, condition with saddle soap. (If coffee contained cream and any greasy stain remains, follow procedures for Cream.)

Cologne

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate.
    • Flush the stain with water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. An alternate method is to flush, then add a few drops of glycerine. Rinse well with water. If some stain remains, cautiously try a diluted solution of whiter vinegar. Make sure you work the stain inward toward the center to avoid leaving a ring. flush with clear water to remove the vinegar, and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, rope, spandex, wool.
    • Sponge the stain with water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, apply wet spotter and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter. flush well with water. Repeat until no more stain is being lifted. If any stain remains, apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover it with absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. (Do not use this on acrylic or modacrylic.) Let stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with alcohol. Flush well with water and allow to dry.

Cough Syrup

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area with water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If any stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester.
    • Sponge area with water. Apply fabric spot remover, or carpet stain remover. Then apply wet spotter and few drops of white vinegar. (Do not use vinegar on cotton and linen.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If the stain persists, apply rubbing alcohol and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with alcohol. If stain still remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge with alcohol. Launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes (not for use on wool carpets). Rinse well with clear water. Launder as soon as possible. For carpets, thoroughly dampen the area with the solution and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with the solution. Keep covered for 30 minutes. Using absorbent pads, remove as much moisture as possible. Allow the area to air-dry thoroughly.

Crayon

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool/nonwashable.
    • Gently scrape to remove crayon. Place an absorbent pad under the stain and flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry. Repeat if necessary until all trace of the stain has been removed.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, line, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex, wool/washable.
    • Scrape to remove crayon. Place the stain between two pieces of white blotting paper and press with a warm iron. Change the blotter as the stain is absorbed. This stain can easily spread, so use care while pressing. On colorfast and white cotton or linen, try pouring boiling water through the stain. Allow the fabric to dry. If any crayon remains, flush it with dry-cleaning solvent. If any dye remains, sponge it with 1 part rubbing alcohol in 2 parts water. (Do not use this solution on acrylic or modacrylic.) Rinse well with clear water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: ceramic glass/tile, glass, paint flat & gloss, plexiglas
    • Gently scrape crayon from the surface. Take care not to scratch the surface. This should be sufficient to remove the stain. Wipe with a sponge dipped in a solution of washing soda or detergent (not soap) and water. Rinse well and wipe dry. On flat or gloss paint, grout, or marble, rub a mildly abrasive pumice bar lightly over the crayon marks. Remove any shine left on flat paint by sponging lightly with hot water.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Gently scrape as much crayon as you can from the surface. Add a small amount of dry-cleaning solvent, and blot with an absorbent pad. (overwetting may damage the carpet's backing.) Continue until no more stain is removed. If any dye remains, dilute 1 part rubbing alcohol with 2 parts water and test on an inconspicuous place. If the carpet proves to colorfast, apply the solution to the stain in small amounts, blotting well after each application. Allow to dry.
  • surface: wallpaper
    • Rub the crayon marks lightly with the edge of a mildly abrasive pumice bar, rubbing in several directions if the wallpaper is textured. An alternate method is to spray aerosol spotlifter onto the stain, or lightly rub the stain with a dry, soap-filled steel-wool pad. If the stain persists, rub it very gently with baking soda sprinkled on a damp cloth. Wipe away any residue with a damp cloth and dry.

Cream

  • fabric: acetate, carpet & wool, silk, wool/nonwashable.
    • Remove cream immediately. Sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak (do not use on silk or wool). Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand for 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the area warm and damp, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush the area thoroughly with clear water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, olefin, polyester, linen, modacrylic, nylon, spandex, wool/nonwashable.
    • Immediately remove as much cream as you can. Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, apply few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the area, then tamp or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and ammonia and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with clear water to remove all traces of ammonia and allow to dry.

Deoderant

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, cotton, fiberglass, linen, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Another method is to apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. (Dilute alcohol with 2 parts water for acetate, rayon, and tricacetate; test silk for colorfastness before using alcohol.) Keep both the stain and the pad moist. Allow to stand as long as any stain is being removed. If the stain remains (and as a last resort), flush with a solution of warm, sudsy water with a few drops of ammonia added. (Use special care on silk and wool.) Rinse with clear water. Apply a solution of warm water with a few drops of white vinegar added, taking special care with this solution on cotton and linen. Rinse again with clear water. Dry thoroughly. (If the color of the fabric has been changed, it may possibly be restored by sponging lightly with a solution of 2 parts water and 1 part ammonia.) Caution: never iron material.with a deodorant stain. The interaction of chemicals and heat will ruin most fabrics.

Egg

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, rope, silk, fiberglass, triacetate, wool.
    • Remove the egg, then sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the are warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush with clear water.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Scrape to remove the egg and sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain persists, apply a few drops of dishwashing detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the stain, then tamp or scrape. Keep the stain moist with detergent and ammonia and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with clear water to remove all of the ammonia. Allow to dry. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand 30 minutes. Add more solution if needed to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, thoroughly flush the area with water.

Eyeliner/Eye Pencil/Eye Shadow

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Brush or blot up any eye makeup, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Press the pad hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being removed. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, flush it with water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist. Flush well with clear water. Repeat if necessary ; allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Brush or blot away any spilled eye makeup, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with a cloth dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing the pad. Continue alternate soaking and tamping until no more stain is lifted. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try the same procedure of soaking and tamping, using wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. When the stain is gone, be sure to flush the area with water to remove all trace of ammonia. Launder as soon as possible.

Face Powder

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Brush or blot up face powder, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Before changing pads, press hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being removed. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, flush it with water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist. Flush well with water and repeat if necessary; allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic,cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Brush away or blot face powder, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with a cloth dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing the pad. Continue alternate soaking and tamping until no more stain is lifted. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try the same procedure of soaking and tamping using wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. When the stain is gone, be sure to flush the area with clear water to remove all trace of ammonia. Launder as soon as possible.

Findernail Polish

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Immediately scrape away fingernail polish with a dull knife or spatula. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep the pad and stain moist. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, burlap, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, rope, spandex.
    • Scrape up the fingernail polish. Test acetone on an inconspicuous place. If fiber color doesn't change, flush acetone through the stain to an absorbent pad. When no more stain is being removed, change pads and flush well with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry thoroughly.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Scrape up as much of the fingernail polish as you can without forcing it into the pile. Apply amyl acetate to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with amyl acetate. Keep the area moist and let stand for about 15 minutes, blotting occasionally. Scrape to help loosen the stain. Flush carefully with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Gelatin

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Scrape to remove gelatin. Make a paste with an enzyme presoak product and water - do not use on silk or wool. Let it stand on the stain for 15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water. For carpets, blot the excess water and allow to air-dry. Be certain that all the sugar has been removed. If any discoloration remains, treat it as a dye. (see dye.)
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Remove any spilled gelatin. Soak in a solution of prewash soil-and -stain remover and water as directed, and launder as soon as possible.

Glue

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Immediately sponge the area with water. Spray on fabric spot remover. Then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being picked up. Change the pad as it removes the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat until no more stain is removed. For lingering stain, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product- do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung dry. Let it stand 30 minutes. Keep the area and pad moist and warm, but do not let the wet area spread. When no more stain is removed, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, olefin. polyester, rayon, spandex.
    • Soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing detergent or liquid laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. (Omit vinegar when treating cotton and linen.) Let soak for 15 minutes and rinse well with water. Sponge cotton or linen only with rubbing alcohol. Launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder as soon as possible.

Grape

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, triacetate, wool.
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge with cool water. Then sponge the area with lemon juice or rub a slice of lemon over the stain. Flush with water. Blot as much excess liquid as possible and allow to dry. If stain persists, apply wet spotter. Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stained area moist with wet spotter. Flush with clear water. If any trace of stain remains, moisten area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean, absorbent pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain and pad moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is visible, flush thoroughly with water and allow to air-dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge with cool water immediately. Then sponge with lemon juice or rub a lemon slice over the stain. Flush with water. Blot as much excess liquid as possible and allow to dry. If any trace of stain still exists, presoak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with clear water and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: cotton, linen.
    • Test fabric for colorfastness. If color doesn't change, stretch the stain over a bowl; fasten in place with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the fabric from a height of 2 or 3 feet. Avoid splatters. This procedure must be done immediately. If the stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge area with rubbing alcohol and launder immediately if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product for 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder.

Grass

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry thoroughly. When working on carpets, be sure to blot up the excess liquid during the procedure and before drying.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Work liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent into the stain and rinse well with clear water. If any stain remains, soak in a solution of enzyme presoak product and water. Rinse thoroughly and launder as soon as possible. If any stain still remains, test for colorfastness in an inconspicuous place, then use a mild sodium perborate bleach or 3-percent hydrogen peroxide. Thoroughly rinse with clear water, then launder as usual.

Grease/Automotive, Cooking

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Blot up as much grease as possible and apply an absorbent, such as cornmeal. After letting the absorbent work , brush it off the fabric. If a stain remains, sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the area. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let it remain in place as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If a stain still persists, sponge stain with water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of white vinegar. Cover the area with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush area with water and repeat the above procedure until no more stain is removed. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot up the excess grease as soon as possible. Apply an absorbent and let it soak up the spill. After brushing off the powder, sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to any remaining stain. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter and let it remain in place until no more stain is lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. To help loosen the stain , occasionally tamp the area, blotting up any loosened material. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any trace of stain remains, sponge stain with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. Tamp the stain again, blotting with an absorbent pad to remove any loosened material. Flush the area with clear water and repeat until no more stain is removed. Allow to dry.

Hair Spray

  • fabric: acetate, acrylic, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, silk, spandex, triacetate, wool.
    • Wipe up excess spray. Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. For silk, apply paste spotlifter. Apply dry spotter to the area and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let the pad stay in place as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stained area moist with dry spotter. On stronger fabrics, tamp dried spray to help loosen it. flush the area with liquid dry-cleaning solvent or reapply spotlifter on silk. If any stain remains, sponge the stain with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover the stain with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with dry spotter and ammonia mixture. Flush with water when stain has disappeared.

Heel Marks

  • fabric: asphalt, linoleum, vinyl tile.
    • Use superfine-grade (0000) steel wool dipped in a liquid wax and rub gently in a circular motion. Wipe with a damp cloth, dry with a clean cloth, and apply a coat of floor wax or polish.

Ice Cream /Non Chocolate

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon , rope, silk, triacetate, wool/nonwashable.
    • Scrape to remove any excess immediately. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak product--do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush the area with clear water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex, woo/washable.
    • Immediately scrape to remove any excess ice cream. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain and keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any stain remains, apply a few drops of liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent and a few drops of ammonia to the area. Tamp or scrape to loosen the stain. Keep the stain moist with the detergent and ammonia solution. Blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Flush well with water to remove all of the ammonia and allow to dry.

Ink/Ballpoint, Stamp Pad (except red)

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the ink stain with water. Try spraying hair spray on the spot to loosen the stain, then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Let stand for 30 minutes, blotting every 5 minutes with a clean absorbent pad. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Add wet spotter and vinegar as needed to keep the stain moist. Flush with clear water. If the stain persists, apply rubbing alcohol and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with alcohol. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush with alcohol. (Do not use alcohol on acetate, rayon, or triacetate.) If any trace of the stain remains, sponge the area with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. Let stand for 30 minutes, blotting every 5 minutes. Add enough wet spotter and ammonia to keep the stain moist. ( Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Flush with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric:acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • A light mist of hair spray may loosen the stain. Soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 30 minutes-use care when using vinegar on cotton and linen. Rinse with clear water and allow to dry. If the stain persists, apply rubbing alcohol and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with alcohol. (Use alcohol sparingly on acrylic and modacrylic.) Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change pad as it picks up the stain. keep both the stain and pad moist with alcohol. Flush with alcohol and allow to dry. If any trace of stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic plastic, ceramic glass/tile, glass, plexiglas.
    • Apply an all-purpose spray cleaner, following label directions. If any trace of the ink stain remains, cover the area with a pad sprinkled with ammonia. Rinse well and wash with a cloth dipped in warm, sudsy water. Rinse again and allow to dry. INK /BALLPOINT, STAMP PAD/ RED
  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area immediately with water to dilute the ink. Spraying on fabric spot cleaner may help to remove the stain. Apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Use ammonia with care on silk and wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Flush well with clear water and repeat if necessary. After drying if stain persists, mix color remover according to package directions. After testing on a hidden seam, flush it through the stain to an absorbent pad beneath. When dealing with carpeting, sponge the color remover on the stain and blot with an absorbent pad. Rinse well with water and allow to dry thoroughly.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Soak the item in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 30 minutes. Rinse well. If stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 1 hour. (Take care when using vinegar on cotton and linen.) Rinse well and allow to dry. If the stain has set, apply rubbing alcohol to the area (dilute with 2 parts water for acrylic or modacrylic) and tamp. As the stain loosens, blot liquid and stain with an absorbent pad. Keep both the stain and pad moist with alcohol and change the pad as it picks up the stain. Allow to dry. As a last resort for any remaining stain, test color remover in an inconspicuous place, then apply to the stain. Flush the solution through the stain and onto an absorbent pad beneath. Rinse well with clear water and allow to dry.

Ink/Fleet Tip, India

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent, and then apply dry spotter to the stain. Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with dry-spotter. Be sure to keep the stain from bleeding. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If the stain persists, sponge with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover the stain with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist with wet spotter and white vinegar. Flush with water and repeat as necessary. Allow to dry. Note: Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. If stain, remains, mix a paste of equal parts powdered detergent and water and add a few drops of ammonia. Apply to the stain. Place an absorbent pad under the stain. When no more stain is being removed, flush thoroughly with clear water and launder. Note: Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Blot as much of the stain as possible without forcing it deeper into the pile. Sponge the stain with a concentrated solution of carpet spot remover. Caution:Never rub ink stains on carpet. Continue to sponge the area, rinsing the sponge as it picks up the stain. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If the stain persists, have the rug professionally cleaned. Repeated applications of a liquid all-purpose cleaning solution also will help remove the ink. Note: Permanent inks are almost impossible to remove.

Lipstick

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, modacrylic, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter and blot immediately with an absorbent pad. Continue sponging and blotting until no more stain is removed. If the stain begins to spread, flush immediately with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. Let all the solvent evaporate, then sponge the area with clear water. Apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Blot frequently with an absorbent pad. Flush with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Treat with a laundry prewash product used as directed and rinse in warm water. If dye from the lipstick remains, soak in 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak for 1 hour. Launder immediately, if possible. If not, rinse well and dry thoroughly. If any stain remains, apply dry-cleaning solvent and dry spotter. Blot immediately with an absorbent pad. If the stain begins to spread, flush immediately with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. Let the solvent evaporate. If stain still remains, sponge with clear water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia. Tamp and blot frequently with an absorbent pad. Flush well with water. Allow to dry. Launder as soon as possible.

Liquid Foundation

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Brush or blot up excess liquid foundation, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Before changing pads, press hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being removed. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, flush with clear water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let it stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist. Flush well with water. Repeat if necessary; allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Brush or blot up foundation, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with a cloth dampended with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing the pad. Continue to alternate soaking and tamping until no more stain is lifted. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try the same procedure of soaking and tamping using wet spotter and few drops of ammonia. When the stain is gone, be sure to flush the area with clear water to remove all trace of ammonia. Launder as soon as possible.

Lotion/Body, Facial, Foot, Hair

  • fabric: carpet/synthetic & wool, rayon, wool.
    • Blot up excess lotion, taking care not to spread the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and apply dry spotter to the stain. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Before changing pads, press hard against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being removed. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, flush with clear water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia added. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter. Flush well with water and allow to dry. Repeat if necessary.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot as much excess lotion as possible. Flush the stain with dry-cleaning solvent and apply dry spotter. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing the pad. Continue to alternate soaking and tamping until no more stain is removed. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try the same soaking/tamping procedure, using wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. After the stain has been removed, flush area with clear water to remove all trace of ammonia. Launder as soon as possible.

Lotion/Hand

  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, wool.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let pad remain as long as it picks up any stain. Change the pad as it absorbs the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. To help loosen stubborn stains on stronger fabrics, tamp or scrape the area. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. Repeat if necessary. If stain persists, sponge with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Keep the stain moist and occasionally blot with an absorbent pad. Again, if the fabric is sturdy, tamp or scrape to help loosen the stain. Flush with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Gently scrape to remove excess lotion. Moisten the spot with clear water and apply a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak. Wait for 30 minutes, then flush the area with water. If possible, launder immediately. If not, allow fabric to air-dry.

Lotion/Suntan

  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, wool.
    • Scrape to remove as much suntan lotion as you can. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover it with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let the pad remain as long as it picks up any stain. Keep both the pad and stain wet with dry spotter. Flush the area with dry-cleaning solvent. If the stain persists, sponge with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use the ammonia on silk or wool.) Keep the stain moist and occasionally blot with an absorbent pad. Flush with clear water to make sure all trace of ammonia is out of the fabric. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Gently scrape to remove excess lotion. Moisten the spot with water and apply a mixture of 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak and 1 cup warm water. Let the stain soak for 30 minutes. flush the area with water. If possible, launder immediately. If not, allow the fabric to air-dry.

Mildew

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Gently brush off mildew. flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter and amyl acetate. Very gently scrape the stain or pat it with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If stain persists, sponge with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Scrape or use an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter to work on the stain. Flush with water and allow to dry. Apply rubbing alcohol and pat the stain with a pad dampened with alcohol. Flush with alcohol and allow to dry. (Do not use alcohol on acetate, rayon, or triacetate.) To remove all trace of the stain, use an oxygen bleach as directed on the package label. When treating carpets, blot all excess liquid, apply an absorbent pad, and weight it down until no more moisture is absorbed.
  • fabric:acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Most mildew stains can be removed during regular laundering if they are moistened beforehand. If any stain remains, test fabric for colorfastness. If the color doesn't change, cover the stain with a paste of lemon juice and salt. On cotton and linen, use a paste of oxygen bleach, water, and a few drops of ammonia. Let the paste cover stain for 15 to 30 minutes. Flush thoroughly with clear water and launder again.
  • fabric: vinyl tile & wallcovering.
    • Wipe the stain with a cloth dipped in warm, sudsy water to which a few drops of ammonia have been added. Rinse well with clear water and wipe dry. If the stain is stubborn, test mildew-stain remover on an inconspicuous place, then apply according to package directions. Do not use the product on fabric or flocked wallcoverings.
  • fabric:ceramic tile, grout
    • Apply tile cleaner or mildew-stain remover. Another effective method is to dampen the stain with water and rub gently with bar soap--not a deodorant soap. Rinse with clear water. Blot excess liquid allow to dry.

Mud/Dirt

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Let mud dry, then brush off the excess. This should remove the stain, but if any remains, sponge the area with clear water and apply a few drops wet spotter and a few drops white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad and dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat the treatment, applying wet spotter and flushing with water until no more stain is removed. If stain remains, apply rubbing alcohol to the area and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. (Do not use alcohol on acetate, rayon, or triacetate.) Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with alcohol. If stain persists, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak, but do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the area warm and moist. When no more stain is being lifted, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Let mud dry, then brush off excess. Laundering should remove any remaining stain. If more treatment is needed, sponge the stain with rubbing alcohol. (Do not use alcohol on acrylic or modacrylic.) Flush with water. If stain persists, sponge it with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to air-dry, then launder.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • To avoid forcing mud further into pile, allow it to dry before treating it. Gently brush loose soil, then vacuum as usual. If a stain remains, spray with carpet shampoo. When the shampoo has dried, vacuum.

Mustard

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Note: Mustard contains turmeric, a yellow dye. If not treated immediately, it can be impossible to remove. Use a dull knife or spatula to lift off as much spilled mustard as you can. Flush the area with dry- cleaning solvent. If the fabric is strong enough, tamp or scrape to loosen the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. While tamping stain, Blot excess material with an absorbent pad. If stain remains, sponge with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Tamp again to loosen stain. Flush with water. If stain persists, moisten area with 3-percent hydrogen peroxide and add a drop of ammonia (except on silk and wool). Do not let the bleaching solution remain on the stain any longer than 15 minutes, then flush with water and allow to dry. When treating carpets, blot all excess liquid, then weight down an absorbent pad with a heavy object. When all liquid has been absorbed, allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Note: Mustard contains turmeric, a yellow dye. If not treated immediately, it can be impossible to remove. If the stain has just occurred, spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain is older, scrape as much of the spill as possible. Flush with water, apply liquid detergent to the stain, and flush again. If the stain remains, soak for several hours or overnight in a warm-to-hot solution of detergent and water. Rinse and launder as soon as possible.

Nicotine/Cigar, Cigarette, Pipe Smoke

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, triacetate.
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Sponge the stain with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat until no more stain is removed. If the stain persists, moisten with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in the solution and wrung almost dry. Let stand for at least 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain warm and damp. When the stain is removed or no more is being lifted, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with clear water. Sponge the remaining stain with rubbing alcohol and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water, allow to dry, and launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: ceramic glass tile, glass, plexiglas, vinyl wallcovering.
    • Wipe the stained surface with a cloth or sponge dipped in warm, sudsy water. Rinse well and wipe dry.
  • fabric: burlap, silk, wool.
    • Sponge the stain with water. Spray on spot cleaner. If stain persists, apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with clear water. Repeat until no more stain is being removed. If any stain remains, test for colorfastness, then apply rubbing alcohol and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Flush with water.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, foam rubber.
    • Sponge the stained area with a solution of 1 quart warm water, and 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. Blot with a clean pad and rinse well with clear water. If stain remains, sponge it with a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak. Blot and sponge alternately until no more stain is left. Sponge the area with water. Blot up all excess water. Place a clean pad over the area and weight it down with a heavy object. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow the area to dry.
  • fabric: cotton, linen.
    • Soak the stain for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent. Rinse well with water. Next, sponge the area with rubbing alcohol, rinse with water, and allow to dry. If the stain remains, soak for 30 minutes in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak. Rinse well, dry, and launder as soon as possible.

Oil/Automotive, Hair, Lubricating, Mineral, Vegetable

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Blot up as much excess as possible and apply an absorbent, such as cornmeal. After letting the absorbent work, brush the powder off the fabric. If a stain remains, sponge with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter. Cover with an absorbent pad that has been dampened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. Flush the area with dry-cleaning solvent. If the stain persists, sponge the area with clear water and apply wet spotter with a few drops of white vinegar. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Continue treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat the procedure until no more stain is removed. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot spilled oil as soon as possible. Apply an absorbent and allow it to soak up the remaining spill. After brushing off the powder, sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment until mo more stain is removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. To help loosen the stain is bleached out and the oil removed, rinse thoroughly with water and allow to dry.

Orange

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, sponge area with cool water, then apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover stain with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat if necessary. If stain persists, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak--do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad moistened with the solution. Let stand for 30 minutes. Add more solution, if needed, to keep the area warm and moist, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is being lifted, flush with clear water.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water and launder if possible. If not, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak for 30 minutes. Rinse with water and launder.

Paint/Latex

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, silk, triacetate, fiberglass, wool.
    • Note: Once latex paint starts to dry, it begins to adhere to fibers and may become permanent. Treat this stain as soon as possible. After scraping to remove excess paint, sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent. Then apply dry spotter to the area and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, sponge the area with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and ammonia. Flush with water and repeat if necessary. Allow to dry thoroughly. When treating carpets, be sure to blot excess liquid with a clean, absorbent pad.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Note: Treat the stain immediately; it may become permanent once the paint has dried. Flush with warm water to remove as much stain as possible, then launder immediately. If paint has dried, moisten area with rubbing alcohol to soften the paint. (For acrylic and modacrylic dilute alcohol with 2 parts water.) Then brush as much paint as possible from the fibers. Launder the fabric.

Paint/Watercolor

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area immediately with water to dilute the paint. Spray on fabric spot cleaner or apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Take care when using ammonia on silk and wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both pad and stain moist with wet spotter and ammonia. Flush well with water and repeat if necessary. Allow to dry thoroughly. If a stain persists, mix color remover according to package directions. Test on an inconspicuous place. If it does not harm the fabric, flush through the stain into an absorbent pad. On carpets, sponge the color remover on the stain and blot with an absorbent pad. Rinse well with clear and dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Soak the stained item in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 30 minutes. Rinse well. If the stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 1 hour. (Take care when using vinegar on cotton and linen.) Rinse well with water and allow to dry. If stain is set, apply rubbing alcohol to the area and tamp.(Dilute alcohol with 2 parts water for acrylic and modacrylic.) As stain loosens, blot excess liquid and stain with an absorbent pad. Keep both stain and pad moist with alcohol and change pad as it picks up the stain. Allow to dry. For any remaining trace of stain, mix color remover according to package directions and test on a hidden place. If it does not harm the fabric, flush through the stain. Rinse well with clear water and allow to dry thoroughly.

Pencil Lead

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Use a soft eraser to remove the stain, being careful not to distort the fabric. Spray on dry-cleaning solvent or use dry spotter. Rub in dry spotter with an absorbent pad moistened with the solution. Cover the stain with a pad dampened with dry spotter and let stand for 30 minutes. Spray again with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, sponge the area with clear water and apply wet spotter plus a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk and wool.) Tamp or scrape the area to loosen the stain. Flush with water and repeat if necessary. Allow fabric to air-dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Use a soft eraser to remove as much of the stain as you can. Rub detergent into the stain and add a few drops of ammonia. Tamp gently, then flush with clear water to remove ammonia. Launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: ceramic glass/tile, marble, plexiglas, vinyl wallcovering.
    • Remove pencil marks with a soft eraser. Wipe the surface with a cloth or sponge dipped in warm, sudsy water. Rinse well with water and wipe dry with a soft cloth.

Perfume

  • fabric: acetate, rayon, silk, wool.
    • Sponge the area with water, then spray on fabric spot cleaner. Follow with an application of wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Take care when using ammonia on silk and wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and ammonia. Flush well with clear water and allow to dry thoroughly.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Soak the stained garment in enzyme presoak according to package directions. After soaking, launder as usual. For older stains, sponge area with a diluted solution of white vinegar and water, then launder. If the fabric color has changed, stretch the stained area over a bowl of ammonia so fumes penetrate while the spot is moist. Prompt treatment of perspiration stains is necessary, as they can weaken most fibers. Caution: Never iron a garment with perspiration stains-the heat will set them.

Pet Stains/Feces

  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester.
    • Quickly and gently scrape to remove the solids. Be careful not to force any stain into the fiber. Sponge the stain with a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Tamp or scrape to help loosen the stain and blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Rinse thoroughly with water to remove all trace of ammonia. If a stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Scrape to remove the solids, being careful not to push stain into the carpet pile. Apply carpet stain remover. Be sure to follow the label directions for special instructions and any precautions. An alternate method is to sponge the area with a solution of 1 teaspoon nonalkali detergent and 1 pint lukewarm water. Blot the stain with an absorbent pad. Continue sponging and blotting until no more stain is removed. If any stain persists, sponge the area with a solution of 1 tablespoon ammonia and 1 cup warm water. (Do not use ammonia on wool carpet.) Blot excess liquid and continue this treatment until no more stain is removed. Place an absorbent pad over the damp area and weight it down. When no more liquid is absorbed, remove the pad and allow area to dry.

Rust

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Because rust stains are very difficult to remove, have them removed professionally from these delicate fabrics.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Apply lemon juice and salt to the stain. Flush with clear water and blot well. If any stain remains, test a rust remover formulated for fabric. If the fabric is not damaged, apply the rust remover according to label directions. Flush thoroughly with water; blot excess liquid. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: cotton, linen.
    • Rub liquid dishwashing or laundry detergent into the stain, rinse with water, and launder as soon as possible. If stain, remains, test fabric for colorfastness, then use a rust remover for fabric, according to package directions.
  • fabric: stainless steel.
    • Rub stainless steel with a damp piece of fine-grade emery cloth, then rub it with a slice of onion. Rinse well with hot water and dry thoroughly with a soft cloth.

Salad Dressing/Creamy

  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Blot up the spill and sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain and keep both the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. When no more stain is removed, flush with dry-cleaning solvent. Allow to dry. If any stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak and 1/2 cup warm water-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad that has been moistened with the solution. Let stand for 30 minutes, adding enough solution to keep the area warm and barely moist. Flush with clear water and allow to dry thoroughly. When treating carpets, blot up excess liquid. Cover the area with an absorbent pad and weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow the area to dry. Or after blotting up excess dressing, treat the stain with carpet stain remover.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Remove as much liquid as possible by blotting. Apply wet spotter to the area and work it into the fiber. Rinse thoroughly with water. If stain remains, apply a paste made from enzyme presoak and water. Allow the paste to cover the stain for at least 15 minutes, keeping it moist. Rinse the area with water and launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Blot up spilled salad dressing. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent, or use dry spotter and cover the stain with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush the area with dry-cleaning solvent. If the stain persists, sponge the area with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed, changing the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot up spilled salad dressing and sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. To help loosen any set stains, tamp the area occasionally, blotting up any loose material. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If any trace of the stain remains, sponge with clear water and apply wet spotter. Tamp the stain again, blotting up any loosened particles. Flush with water and repeat if necessary. Allow to dry.

Sauce/Barbecue, Spaghetti, Steak

  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, silk, wool.
    • Gently scrape to remove sauce. Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Continue this process as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with dry spotter. When no more stain is being removed, flush dry-cleaning sovent through the area and allow to dry. If any stain remains, moisten it with 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak mixed with 1/2 cup warm water. Cover with an absorbent pad that has been dipped in this solution and wrung nearly dry. Let stand for 30 minutes, adding enough solution to keep the area warm and barely moist. Flush the area with water and allow to dry. On carpets, sponge iwth water to remove the enzyme mixture, then place a clean, dry pad over the area and weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow the carpet to air-dry completely.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, nylon, olefin,linen, modacrylic, polyester, spandex.
    • Carefully scrape to remove as much sauce as possible. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. If stain remains, apply wet spotter and work it into the fabric. Rinse thoroughly with clear water and launder. If any stain remains, mix a paste using enzyme presoak and water. Let it work on the stain for a while. Keep the paste moist. After about 30 minutes, thoroughly rinse the area with water to remove all trace of enzyme presoak. Launder as soon as possible.

Shoe Polish (except white)

  • fabrics: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the stain with dry-cleaning solvent and apply dry spotter. Cover the stain with an absorbent pad moistened with dry spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist with dry spotter. Flush the stain with dry-cleaning fluid. If the stain persists, sponge it with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover the stain with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter and ammonia. Change the pad as it picks up the stain, keeping both the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and ammonia. Flush the area with water and repeat if necessary. Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. If the stain persists, mix a paste of powdered detergent, water and a few drops of ammonia. Place an absorbent pad beneath the stained area and apply the paste to the stain. When no more stain is being removed, flush the area thoroughly with clear water and launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Scrape to remove as much shoe polish as possible. Sponge the stain with a concentrated solution of carpet shampoo. Continue sponging the area, rinsing the cloth or sponge in clear water as it picks up the stain. Repeat until no more stain is removed.

Smoke

  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, rayon, wool.
    • Note: Fabrics or carpets that are heavily stained with smoke should be laundered or professionally cleaned. For light stains, flush the area with dry-cleaning solvent, taking care not to spread the stain. Apply dry spotter and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain every 5 minutes. Before changing pads, press firmly against the stain. Continue the alternate soaking and pressing until no more stain is being lifted. Flush again with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If any stain remains, try applying wet spotter with a few drops of ammonia added. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Flush with clear water. Repeat if necessary; allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester,spandex.
    • Note: Fabrics that have a smoke residue from a fire are best laundered or professionally cleaned. If the stain is small or laundering immediately is not possible, flush it with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with dry spotter. Check the stain often, tamping before changing pads. Continue to alternate soaking and tamping until the stain is removed. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry. If the stain remains, try the same procedure with wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. Be sure to flush the area with clear water when the stain is lifted. Allow to dry and launder as soon as possible.

Soft Drinks/Cola

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Blot up as much of the spill as you can with a clean cloth. Sponge the remaining stain with water. It is imperative to remove all the sugar. Usually water will completely remove the stain, but if any remains, spray on fabric spot cleaner or apply wet spotter and a few drops of whiter vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad and let it stand as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush well with water. Repeat until the stain is lifted. If any sugar remains and turns yellow, it cannot be removed.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton. linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot up spilled cola with a clean cloth and flush the area thoroughly with clear water. This usually enough to remove the stain, but to be certain the sugar is removed, launder immediately. If that is not possible, soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. If it is an old stain and the sugar has not been caramelized by heat, soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water to remove enzyme and sugar residues. Allow to dry, but launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Blot up the spilled cola immediately. It is important to remove as much of the sugar as possible. Sponge the stain with clear water or flush area rugs with water. Blot up as much liquid as possible and apply carpet stain remover, following the directions on the label. If any stain remains, flush with a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. Rinse well with water and blot with a clean pad. Place an absorbent pad over the area and weight it down. When no more liquid is being absorbed, allow the carpet to air-dry thoroughly.

Soft Drinks/Non Cola

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Blot up as much excess as possible and sponge the area with cool water. Spray on fabric spot cleaner or apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Let stand as long as any stain is being removed. Keep both the stain and the pad damp with wet spotter. flush with water. Repeat if necessary. If the stain persists, moisten the area with a solution of 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak and 1 cup warm water-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a damp cloth that has been dipped in this solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand 30 minutes. Add more solution as needed to keep the stain warm and moist, but be careful not to let the wet area spread. When the stain is gone, flush thoroughly with clear water to remove all sugar residue.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Blot up as much of the spill as you can. Launder as soon as possible, as that usually removes all traces of soft drink. If laundering isn't possible, soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with clear water, allow to dry, then launder.

Rules For Spot Removal/Stains

Tea

Tobacco

Tomato/Tomato Juice/Tomato Sauce

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the stain with cool water, then sponge the area with lemon juice or rub a slice of lemon over the stain (use with caution on wool). Flush with clear water and blot up as much liquid as possible. Let dry. If stain persists, apply wet spotter and cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter. Flush with water. If any trace of the stain remains, moisten the area with a solution of 1 cup warm water and 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak-do not use on silk or wool. Cover with a clean pad dampened with solution and wrung almost dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain and pad moist and warm, but do not allow the wet area to spread. When no more stain is visible, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Sponge the stain with cool water immediately. Then sponge lemon juice on the stain or rub with a lemon slice. Flush with clear water, blotting as much liquid as possible. Allow to dry. If any trace of the stain persists, soak in a solution 1quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon dishwashing detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with water and launder if possible. If not, presoak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product. Rinse well with water and launder.
  • fabric: cotton, linen.
    • Test fabric for colorfastness. If colorfast, stretch the stained fabric over a bowl and fasten in place with a rubber band. Pour boiling water through the fabric from a height of 2 or 3 feet. Avoid splatters. This procedure must be done immediately. If the stain persists,, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon detergent for 15 minutes. Rinse with water. Sponge area with rubbing alcohol and launder if possible. If not, soak for 30 minutes in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak product. Rinse well with water and launder.

Unknown Staining Agent

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Tamp or scrape to help loosen the stain. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If stain persists, apply amyl acetate and tamp again. Flush with solvent and allow to dry. If stain still remains, sponge stain with clear water and apply a few drops of white vinegar. Tamp again. Apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Tamp again. Allow to dry. Sponge with rubbing alcohol and pat with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. (Do not use full strength alcohol on acetate, rayon, or triacetate.) Allow to dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Cover the stain with a pad dampened with rubbing alcohol. Let the pad remain on the stain for a few minutes, then wipe with a cloth moistened with ammonia. If the stain persists, sponge the area with dry-cleaning solvent. Apply dry spotter. Tamp or scrape to help loosen the stain. Flush with liquid dry-cleaning solvent. If stain remains, apply amyl acetate and tamp again. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent. If stain still persist, sponge with clear water, then apply wet spotter and a few drops of whiter vinegar. (Do not use vinegar on cotton or linen.) Tamp again and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. Flush with dry-cleaning solvent and allow to dry.

Urine

  • fabric: acetate, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Sponge the area with water or club soda immediately to dilute the stain. Apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk or wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep both the pad and stain moist with wet spotter and ammonia. Flush with clear water, then apply wet spotter with a few drops of white vinegar. Flush well with water and repeat if necessary. Allow to dry. On carpets, apply rug shampoo.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Flush immediately with water or club soda. Soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia for 30 minutes. Rinse well with clear water. If stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon white vinegar for 1 hour. (Use white vinegar with care on cotton and linen.) Rinse well and allow to dry. If the stain is set, try applying rubbing alcohol to the area and tamping. (Do not apply full-strength rubbing alcohol to acrylic or modacrylic-dilute with 2 parts water.) As the stain loosens, blot liquid and stain with an absorbent pad. Keep both the stain and pad moist with alcohol and change the pad as it picks up the stain. Allow to dry.

Vomit

  • fabric: acetate, burlap, fiberglass, rayon, rope, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Gently scrape up solids. Sponge the area with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of ammonia. (Do not use ammonia on silk and wool.) Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter and ammonia. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being picked up. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and ammonia. Flush thoroughly with cool water, making sure to remove all trace of ammonia. If a stain persists, moisten it with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon enzyme presoak and 1/2 cup warm water-do not use on silk or wool. Cover stain with an absorbent pad dampened with the solution and let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the area warm and barely moist. Flush with clear water and dry thoroughly.
  • fabric: acrylic, cotton, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Quickly scrape to remove solids. Soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon ammonia. Tamp or scrape to help loosen the stain. Blot occasionally with an absorbent pad. Rinse well with water, making sure to remove all trace of ammonia. If stain persists, soak in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak for 30 minutes. Rinse well and launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: carpet synthetic & wool.
    • Scrape up solids, being careful not to force the stain deeper into the pile. Then apply carpet stain remover. Or sponge the area with a solution of 1 teaspoon mild, nonalkali detergent and 1/2 pint lukewarm water. Blot the liquid with an absorbent pad. Continue sponging and blotting until no more stain is removed. Sponge the area with a solution of 1 tablespoon ammonia and 1 cup warm water. (Do not use ammonia on wool carpets.) Blot excess liquid. Continue until no more stain is being removed. Place an absorbent pad over the damp area and weight it down with a heavy object. When no more liquid is absorbed, remove the pad and allow carpet to air-dry thoroughly.

Water Spots

  • fabric: acetate, acrylic, carpet synthetic & wool, fiberglass, linen, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, rayon, silk, spandex, triacetate, wool.
    • Water spots on fabrics are the result of water dislodging sizing or other finishing agents and causing them to form rings on the material. To remove water spots, dampen the entire area with water and allow to dry. Spots may also be removed by holding the area in the steam from a boiling kettle. If the garment can be ironed, press while still damp.
  • fabric: leather, suede
    • Test denatured alcohol in an inconspicuous area. If it does not harm the material, rub the stain with a cloth dampened with a few drops of alcohol. On leather, condition with saddle soap. To condition suede,apply suede cleaner.
  • fabric: silver.
    • Note: Water spots can tarnish silver. Wash as soon as possible in hot, soapy water. Rinse in hot, clear water and dry immediately with a soft cloth.

Wine/Red, Rose

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, triacetate.
    • Blot up the spill with a clean cloth. Spray on fabric spot cleaner. Sponge any remaining stain with water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad moistened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the stain and pad moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with clear water. Repeat until no more stain is removed. If the stain remains, moisten it with a solution of 1 teaspoon enzyme presoak and 1 cup warm water. Cover with a clean pad that has been dipped in this solution and wrung nearly dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes. Add enough solution to keep the stain warm and barely moist. When no more stain is removed, flush with water and dry.
  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester, spandex.
    • Note: Be sure to remove the sugar residue or it will cause a permanent stain. Blot up the spilled wine and soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon vinegar for 15 minutes. Rinse with clear water and sponge with rubbing alcohol. Launder as soon as possible. If the stain remains, soak it in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak for 30 minutes. Rinse well with water and allow to dry. Launder as soon as possible.
  • fabric: burlap, silk, wool
    • Note: Be sure to remove the sugar residue or it will cause a permanent stain. Blot up excess wine. Spray on fabric spot cleaner or sponge the stain with clear water and apply wet spotter and a few drops of white vinegar. Cover with an absorbent pad dampened with wet spotter. Continue this treatment as long as any stain is being removed. Change the pad as it picks up the stain. Keep the pad and stain moist with wet spotter and vinegar. Flush with water and repeat until no more stain is being lifted. If any stain remains, sponge with rubbing alcohol and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol. Continue this process as long as any stain is being lifted. Change the pad as it picks up the stain and keep both the stain and pad moist with alcohol. flush thoroughly with clear water. For stubborn or old stains, try moistening the area with a solution of 1 teaspoon gentle liquid detergent and 1 cup warm water. Cover with an absorbent pad dipped in this solution and wrung nearly dry. Let it stand for 30 minutes, adding enough solution to keep the area warm and moist. When the stain is removed, flush thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
  • Fabric: carpet synthetic & wool, foam rubber.
    • Note: Be sure to remove the sugar residue or it will cause a permanent stain. Blot up as much spilled wine as you can with an absorbent pad, then apply carpet stain remover. Or flush the stain on an area rug or sponge carpeting with a solution of 1 quart warm water, 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent, and 1 tablespoon white vinegar. Blot with a clean pad and rinse well with clear water. If any stain remains, sponge it with a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1 tablespoon enzyme presoak. Blot and flush alternately until no more stain is removed. Rinse with clear water and blot up the excess liquid with an absorbent pad. Weight down another pad with a heavy object. When no more liquid is absorbed, allow to air-dry thoroughly.
  • fabric: cotton, linen.
    • Blot up the spill, then pretreat and launder. If that is not possible, soak the stain in a solution of 1 quart warm water and 1/2 teaspoon liquid detergent and let stand for 15 minutes. Rinse well with clear water and sponge area with rubbing alcohol. Rinse again with water and allow to dry. If the stain persists,soak in a solution of warm water and enzyme presoak according to package directions. Rinse with water and launder as soon as possible.

Wine/White

Yellowing

  • fabric: acetate, fiberglass, rayon, silk, triacetate, wool.
    • Flush the spot with water. Test a mild solution of 3-percent hydrogen peroxide and water in an inconspicuous area-if it does not harm the fabric, apply to the stain. Do not allow the solution to remain on the fabric; Flush with water immediately. If any stain remains, it is best not to attempt further cleaning at home.
  • fabric: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester.
    • Apply lemon juice to the stain, but do not let it dry. Rinse thoroughly with clear water. If possible, launder. If you can't launder, test rust-stain remover on the fabric. If it does not harm the fabric, apply according to package directions. Then Flush the area with cool water and launder as soon as possible. Be careful not to spill any rust remover on porcelain or enamel because it will ruin the finish.
  • fabric: cotton, linen
    • Rub detergent into the stain and rinse well with water. Launder as soon as possible. If the stain remains, test rust remover in an inconspicuous place. If it does not damage the fabric, apply according to package directions. Flush thoroughly with clear water and launder.
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